last update: November 18 / '08
homeless :( updates rarely :( see my blog
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This page is where I discuss PC gaming hardware. The page is divided into sections and each section contains components that have different levels of importance in the system and different upgrade/life cycles. Along the left side you will see a brief description of the part, as well as a reference to the current part I have in my system. To the right you will find discussion on the ('best') current options for that part, what I recommend, and future directions or options for that part. You may also find a notation as to what I expect to upgrade to for my own system and when I hope to do so. Hopefully, by translating some of the technospeak that hardware sites use into regular speak you will be better able to choose upgrades that suit your needs and give you a happy computing experience. |
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The Core |
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CPU
AMD
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If you are buying a new CPU, $100-200 seems to be a 'sweet spot' that will last you at least 2 to 3 years. Targeting the $200+ range will put you into the higher-end category and set you up nicely to pair your system with a really great GPU and will last 3, possibly even 4 years. However, I do not recommend spending over $350 on a CPU as CPUs beyond that range often are so far into bleeding edge that their advantages are lost due to lack of current support for those features. By the time those features are closer to mainstream, faster cores are often available.
AMD is the way to go for a bit of flexibility in the lower price range. The Intel Core 2 Duo line currently holds the crown for power/performance per dollar as well as having cores that perform faster/better than the AMD line. This difference is further increased if you overclock, as the Intel Core 2 Duo line overclocks better/further than the AMD cores. Intel's newest chipset, the Core i7, has launched and may be something to consider for you early adopters. The gains in gaming are minimal to non-existant compared to the current Core 2 chips, but gains for non-gaming are very decent. This likely will change over time as games take advantage of the newer features. I personally don't expect to change any of my full system recommendations to include the Core i7 until closer to March after prices have cooled off a bit. I have decided though to add an 'alt' version to the high end system recommendations in case you early adopters would like to see what I recommend. Note that the Core i7 uses a new socket and will only be compatible with other Core i7 based motherboards and are best paired with tri channel DDR3. Personal upgrade path: Core i7 920 (H1'09) Lifespan: Up to 4 years. I recommend you change the CPU every 2. Intel Dual Core Recommendations: Intel Quad Core Recommendations: Intel Quad Core Core i7 Recommendations: AMD Dual Core Recommendations: AMD >Dual Core Recommendations: Note that AM2 motherboards may require a bios update before they can use the Phenom core. A word on Quad core: On the Horizon:
An 'aftermarket cooler' is never required, but they can be cooler and quieter than retail coolers. A good liquid system will keep your temperatures low as well as offering a lower noise volume. However, I only recommend liquid if you are going for a silent system or are going to do extreme overclocking. Most aftermarket coolers will do just fine under mild overclocking conditions and are a lot lower cost than liquid and much easier to install. When installing the CPU cooler be careful not to touch the surface with your fingers, particularly the part which contacts the CPU, as finger greases will harm most coolers. Usually you can hold the coolers by their fin areas with little to no danger of harm. I recommend using rubber gloves if you have them. Recommendations:
Do realize that if you use an aftermarket cooler you will have to apply thermal compound (in almost all cases), whereas retail coolers often have cooling paste pre-applied. It is fairly easy to do this if you follow the directions. The manufacturer should include paste with the cooler, but Arctic Silver is better than the free stuff for low cost. For cleaning off thermal paste you can use "isopropyl rubbing alcohol" which can be found in most regular shoping stores, like Safeway, for about $1.75. I've seen them sold in 70% and 90% bottles. I'm pretty sure either is fine. I use 70%. |
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| GPU
Evga
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A graphics card worth about $150-300 should cover you for high-end settings on new games for ~2 years depending on the exact settings you use. Typically graphics cards in the $100-150 range will do just fine for mainstream/medium settings and resolutions for new games or slightly higher for games that don't use the most current graphical effects. At $300 and higher you are into the high end and will have a better gaming experience at higher resolutions or higher graphical settings. Note though that the majority of users won't need to spend this much, as the increase is only typically necessary for bleeding-edge games with maximum settings, or very high resolutions such as 2560x1600.
DirectX10 and 10.1 discussion has been moved to the articles & guides page. See that page for details if you have questions. Something new for graphics cards and motherboards is PCIe x16 Version 2. When a graphics card and motherboard both have PCIe v2 the graphics card has more bandwidth. It may be some time before games need this increased bandwidth, but it is a nice feature to watch out for. It likely will be a few years before graphic cards benefit from this, so this isn't something to be overly concerned with right now. Everyone should have made the move to v2 before it's power is tapped. Note that part of the PCIe v2 standard is a new 8-pin graphics card connector. Some of these new graphic cards may use this connector type, and if they do, you would also need a PCIe v2 compatible power supply. (All the ones I list have PCIe v2 compatibility.) I have developed a rating system that may help people choose which graphics card is best for their resolution and use. Note that this is not an absolute science, as each game varies in how much graphical power it will use, and in-game settings will require different levels of power. Note that these ratings may chang as time goes on and the cards age, are replaced by newer cards, or games require more power.
Personal upgrade path: Evga GTX 260 (Q1'09) Lifespan: About 3 years. I recommend you change your graphics card every 2. Note that at this time, unmarked memory amounts are 512 meg cards. Nvidia Recommendations: ATi Recommendations: |
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| Ram
Corsair XMS2
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Some motherboards can take "SLI" certified ram, which will automatically overclock the ram. The SLI certification, sometimes called "enhanced performance profile" or "EPP" is an Nvidia specific feature and you'll need a specific ('enthusiast') Nvidia chipset to be able to use it. Note that this only exists on some Nvidia 6xx and 7xx chipsets. It does not exist with the new x58 chipset.
Ram has two ratings; one is the overall speed, and one is the timings. "Tighter" timings, those which are smaller numbers, can be "faster" ram. While this may not yield a huge difference compared to regular speed ram, if you can get ram with lower timings for not too much more than regular timings you may want to go for it. If you have a choice of slower overall speed versus tight timing, tight timing will often yield a better rain. I really don't recommend less than 4 gig. Even if your system may not be able to use all of the ram for memory (32-bit operating systems will only "see" about 3.5 or 3 gig) it is best to go ahead and get 4 gig (ideally in two 2 gig sticks.) The only time I recommend sticking with 2 gig is if the system is on a very tight budget, or you live in a part of the world where moving to 4 gig from 2 is prohibitvely expensive. Note that it is ideal to match the ram speed to the (fastest) motherboard FSB speed. I say ideal as most times faster ram speeds will increase the cost, and the gain may be very small for such an increase. The Core i7 chipset is capable of using tri-channel ram. (Boards may also be able to use dual channel.) This means that you ideally want to pair your Core i7 motherboard with a DDR3 ram kit that includes three ram sticks. Personal upgrade path: OCZ 6 gig DDR3 (H1'09) Lifespan: Add or change as needed. Typically needs change with CPU / Motherboard generations. Roughly 4 years, but I recommend changing with your Motherboard change. Check the standards every other year. Recommendations - 2 gig kits (2 x 1 gig sticks): Recommendations - 4 gig kits (2 x 2 gig sticks): Recommendations - 4 gig kits (2 x 2 gig sticks) DDR3: Recommendations - Core i7 6 gig kits (3 x 2 gig sticks) DDR3: Projections: |
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| Motherboard
ASUS
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This motherboard is silent, and has no chip fan; meaning there is 1 less part that can fail and 1 less part that generates noise. This is a good board with tons of features. Be warned that a doublewide GPU may block Sata slots 5 and 6. Most people won't use more than a few slots, however, for you raid heavy people that will be something to watch out for.
Watch out for motherboards with chipset fans. These tiny fans are great for cooling, but they often are noisy and are prone to failure. A silent heat pipe system is often a better choice. Something new to watch for is compatibility with the new PCI Express 16 Version 2 standard (PCIe v2). This new slotting type will allow graphic cards to run even faster than they currently do. Note that v1 or v2 graphic cards can be used with either a v1 or v2 motherboard, but in order to run at the v2 speed it must be paired with a v2 compatible motherboard. It likely will be a few years before graphic cards benefit from this, so this isn't something to be overly concerned with right now. Everyone should have made the move to v2 before it's power is tapped. The Core i7 motherboards have launched and introduce some new features. The greatest feature which will benefit gamers is the ability to run either Nvidia's SLI or ATi's Crossfire. This means you no longer have to worry about which graphic card you choose for your board, you just have to be sure to get a matching one of it's type when you want to go dual or tri graphics. The boards also feature tri channel ram, meaning they would best be paired with a new tri ram kit. They could also use an older dual kit, but from what I've seen of early offerings the tri ram kits aren't all that much more expensive than the dual kit, so they would be the better choice when purchasing for a new build. Personal upgrade path: Evga Core i7 board type (H1'09) Lifespan: Motherboard changes are dictated by CPU socket changes. The tech rarely changes during a CPU lifecycle. Intel Recommendations: Intel Recommendations, Core i7: AMD Recommendations: Locking SATA cables Although these aren't necessary, as (non-locking) cables are included in your Motherboard box and should work just fine, you may want to go ahead and buy these to be extra sure your cables stay securely attached. There should be no problems with the standard cable, so these are really only for those who may be moving their PC from time to time. Those with 90 degree heads would be good for connecting to the back of hard drives. Some manufacturers already include locking SATA cables with their Motherboards, but just to be sure these will remain listed here for a while so that you can buy them on your own if need be. Recommendations: |
CPU Cooling
CPU Cooler Compound
Best for 1280x1024 or lower, may be ok at 1680x1050. One star cards will be an entry level or lower mainstream gaming cards. Most games will need to be set at low settings. I only recommend 1 star cards if you can't afford a 2 star, as there will be a big rift between them in power.
Best for 1680x1050 or 1280x1024. Two star cards are lower mainstream and should be fine for lower or medium settings.
Best for 1680x1050. Three star cards are a great choice. Most people will want a 3 or 4 star card. Games should run at medium or higher settings.
Best for 1680x1050, 1920x1200, or 1600x1200. Four star cards are a great choice and have a touch more oomf. Most people will want a 3 or 4 star card. Games should have no problem running at higher settings.
Best for 1920x1200 or 1600x1200. Five star cards are higher-end and are best for high-resolution and high settings.
Best for 1920x1200 and up. Overkill Rank 1 is a high-end card and has power or features that exceed all but the most demanding games. It is best to avoid this type of card unless you have a high spending limit.
Best for 1920x1200 and up. Overkill Rank 2 is a high-end card and has power or features that exceed all but the most demanding games, and likely will remain overkill for quite some time. It is best to avoid this type of card unless you have an unlimited budget.
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Sub-core Systems |
| Sound Card
Creative Labs
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For me, good positional audio really increases my enjoyment of a game. Some of the Creative Labs X-Fi cards include on-board ram, a first for sound cards. Only a few games currently take advantage of the on-board ram so this isn't as big of a gain as it may sound like. Some games feature EAX 5.0 coding and when you play one of those games the sounds do sound far superior to those without EAX 5.0. Motherboards currently only use EAX 2.0, so while sound from on-motherboard chips will be adequate, they won't be quite as nice.
Asus has launched a new sound card, the "Xonar DX". This could be some real competition for the Creative Labs X-Fi cards, as the Xonar DX also uses EAX 5.0, meaning it's sound quality and clarity would be equal to the Creative Labs X-Fi line. Many people complain about driver issues with the Creative Lab cards, so it is possible Asus could be a better option if they prove to be a superior provider of driver support. I haven't seen any reviews comparing the Xonar DX to the X-Fi line yet. I'm sure they will show up soon. Note that some cards use the old-school PCI connection, while some cards use the new-school PCI express 1x connection. A PCIe 1x type card can theoretically be used in any PCIe slot. So those 16x and 8x graphic card slots should work just fine for a PCIe 1x sound card if you don't have an available 1x slot. Lifespan: Sound card tech rarely changes. I recommend updating every 3 years, or as needed due to a tech change. Recommendations; PCI connection: Recommendations; PCI express 1x connection:
Speakers I tend to stick with one speaker set and change when the sound technology changes. These were decent sounding mid-cost speakers when I got them. Technology hasn't changed much, so there hasn't been any real reason for me to upgrade even though I made this purchase in 2005. Lifespan: A personal choice, but I recommend every 3 years or as needed. Recommendations: |
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| Hard drive
Western Digital
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I had to change my hard drive around September '06 and decided to go with the Western Digital SE16. I absolutely love this drive, as it has a ton of space, it is extremely quiet, and runs very quickly. This drive will do just fine under gaming operation. A Raptor (a 10,000 RPM high speed type) will be faster than normal drives, but this difference will only appear during times the drive is operating. For gaming this means slightly faster load times. Typically gaming load times are not a situation where you really need to worry about speed. However, with a heavy media application, such as compiling code, manipulating data, etc., these savings can add up. Note that all drives are "OEM" items and do not have a box or cables. However, your motherboard kit should include the necessary Sata cables. Projections: Lifespan: Hard drive tech changes rarely, but I recommend changing your hard drive about every 3 to 4 years. Recommendations; standard speed: Recommendations; high speed: |
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| DVD / CD
not sure |
DVD burners are getting lower in price these days, so there isn't any reason not to get one (compared to getting a CD type). Just be sure it has features and speeds you are happy with. Try and check for a sata connection type and Windows Vista certification.
Lifespan: Media tech changes rarely. I recommend changing as necessary. Recommendations: |
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| Power Supply
Antec Phantom
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Something new to watch for is compatibility with the new PCI Express 16 Version 2 standard (PCIe v2). This requires an 8-pin power connector for graphic cards. Previously power supplies used a 6-pin type, most on the market only have 6-pin. However, many new power supplies use a "6+2" pin method. My recommendations all have at least one 6+2-pin PCIe connector, with two or more total PCIe connectors.
Upgrade path: Corsair CMPSU-1000HX or 620HX (unknown date) Lifespan: About 4 years. I recommend changing every 3 years or as needed. Recommendations: There are three things to consider when purchasing a power supply; the overall Power ratting, the 12 volt rails / total amps, and the Fan size / speed. Power rating is the overall big number you see listed on the box. Today, right now, you want to target 500w or higher with a new system for single graphic card use, or 650w or higher for dual graphic card use. The 12v lines and total amps is equally important and equally as tricky to gauge your needs. These are very important for graphics card power, but also important if you run lots of devices (such as multiple hard drives.) The short version is that you want at least 34 total amps these days. If a power supply has multiple 12v lines you can add their amounts together to find the total amps. Fans are important to consider if you are concerned about noise. Larger fan size doesn't automatically mean that the fan will be quieter, but it does mean that it can run at a lower speed. You will want to be sure that the fan has a speed control, which is critical for keeping noise at a minimum. Some fans run at only one speed, meaning they produce more noise than they have to and will likely be overly loud. Efficiency is also something you may wish to check. Most power supplies these days will have >80% efficiency. Less efficient units will produce more heat and may cost you more in terms of a monthly power bill. (Though this monthly cost increase likely won't be too noticeable.) PCIe connectors are also something you may want to consider. The power supplies I recommend all have at least two PCIe connections that use the new 6+2 pin connectors. Some graphic cards only require one PCIe plug, however, some require two. Depending on how many of which cards you will use you may want one, two, four, or six PCIe connectors total. While it is tempting to buy a cheap power supply, don't. The power supply is the heart of your system, so you want a good one. Read some reviews and go with a well-known brand that matches your price and performance needs if you are unsure. Recommendations: All power supplies listed are PCIe v2 compatible and have two or more 8-pin ("6+2") PCIe connection types. |
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Antec
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I have to say that the Antec Nine Hundred is an amazingly quiet case and it isn’t overly large like some. I accidentally had one fan bumped to high when I first booted up, boy was that loud, but that's actually a good feature - the fans can be switched between three different settings depending on your cooling needs. The extra room in the case makes it easy to set things up. The fan settings are a great option, allowing you to go for silence or for maximum cooling. There are even thingies in the tray of the case so you can twist tie cables here and there to make cable management easy. The Antec Nine Hundred is easily one of the best cases I have owned. (So far I’ve owned at least 6.)
In my opinion cases that cost more than $100 are too expensive. Usually the features you gain for the really expensive cases simply aren't worth the cost. If you find a case you like, look around for better prices; sometimes you can find really good cases much cheaper at one retailer compared to another. If you like one which is more than $100 look very carefully at the stats, ask yourself if you really need the features it offers compared to a less expensive case. General case comments: Drive bays - Each case has a different number of bays. Consider your needs. You likely won't change your needs drastically, so there isn't much point in getting something that would be overkill. Cooling - Case fans can make a decent amount of difference in the overall temperatures inside your case. Choosing a case with more than one fan, particularly if they can be changed to different speeds, is a good idea. Two should be plenty. Noise - Few cases are louder than others simply based on design. The exception to this are ones which have open sides or fronts, as the open nature will allow for a little more noise to come out. Basically your noise level will be impacted more by the number and type of fans the case has than by design. C00ln3ss! - The "coolness" factor of a case can deceptive. Be sure the case meets your needs on the above factors before buying it just becaue it looks cool. Some of those cool design factors may impact the ease of installation of parts or how well the case cools the parts inside. Size - Some cases (especially the smaller ones) can be difficult to work with (when installing stuff). This can be problematic if you expect to change out parts. While the larger cases can often provide plenty of internal room, they can take up a lot of external room - meaning that large case which is very roomy inside may take up all of the available space you have in your PC area. Balance the case size with your biological size needs - meaning leave enough room for your PC parts as well as enough room for your body parts. Consider where that PC will go in relation to where you will go. Will the size be helpful or harmful to your personal space? Weight - A minor point, but one to consider none the less. Aluminum cases will be lighter compared to Steel cases. If you are going to be changing parts every now and then, or carrying your PC to a friends for those lan party weekends, you may want to consider a smaller aluminum case. Lifespan: About 5 years. When you need to change will be determined by changes in the industry which alter Motherboard or graphic card size. Recommendations: Cooler Master Centurion 5 - This is a decent looking and very low-cost case. It should do just fine for basic needs. However, be aware it may not have the room required by some of the larger graphic cards, such as the new Nvidia 8800 GTX. If you'd like to add more case fans, or replace the ones which come with your case, I recommend using Antec tri-cool fans. These have an adjustable speed (three settings), so you can tailor the speed according to your need or your preference for fan volume. If more fans doesn't push airflow where you need it to go Antec has a fan that allows you to target specific spots - the SpotCool. NewEgg link (I'm not sure if NewEgg still sells it) and Amazon link. The SpotCool also has three speed settings, just like the tri-cool fans. |
Note that you will want to avoid the "Xtreme Audio" version of the X-Fi line as this is really an Audigy SE. Both the Audigy SE line and the "X-Fi Xtreme Audio" version are missing features that are used in today's games.
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Peripherals |
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Mouse
Logitech G9
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Let me begin by saying that the G9 is one of the best mice I have ever owned. This seems to be a trend, in that each Logitech mouse upgrade I make improves my experience. The mouse begins very light, but has extra weights so you can tailor its weight to your style. It is fairly small, though very similar in size compared to the G5. I would guess it to be about 85% of the length. It is, however, a lower profile mouse. My fingers rest in a more natural position on the G9. The scroll wheel is a pretty superior design overall and feels like solid construction compared to the fumbly G5 design. It rolls quickly and smoothly. The on-the-fly setting switch is different from the G5 design, in that the G9 is flat and sort of 'one' with the overall design. This might make it a bit more challenging to change mid-combat. I'm sure it wouldn't take very long before you could get used to it. The side button seems great, but the front/side button seems a bit more difficult to get to. I find myself moving my entire thumb area on my hand to get to it. While this may seem troublesome now, I'm sure I can get quicker at it in the future, and it certainly is a lot faster than doing something like, say for example, moving my left hand off of 'wasd' to hit an F key.
It would appear that Logitech has stopped including drivers with the mouse. This is a bit of a double edged sword in that it's good because it ensures that the user has the most recent version of the software, as they are forced to download them, but bad in that people actually have to go online to get them. However, I don't know if this is really an issue, as the mouse is plug and play compatible and works just fine after windows has detected it. A new feature for the G9 is a customizable faceplate housing. The G9 comes with 2, one being targeted at a gamer design, and one a more classic style design. I am honestly shocked that we haven't seen specific game-specific designs. I know there have been some special G5s out there with Battlefield images and it surprised me to not see any designs for the G9. Hopefully we will see some nice plates for low cost in the future allowing you to swap your design when it strikes your fancy. Another new feature for the G9 is the ability to change the LED colors. This can be done fairly easily through the SetPoint sofware. Upgrade path: SteelSeries World of Warcraft limited edition (unknown date) Lifespan: About 3 years or as needed. Recommendations:
I don't know how critical exact mousing is to everyone else, but I like my movements to be precise. Fumbling and hitches were left behind long ago when I stopped using non-gaming mice. While I would not recommend an expensive mouse pad to all, for those who don't want their mouse movements disrupted, I'd say get yourself a good one. This one has been used and endorsed by professional gaming teams. Recommendations: |
| Keyboard
Saitek
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My keyboard is the first generation of the Eclipse line and has a backlight only, while the newer ones have light that also shines through the key lettering. This is a great keyboard (as far as feeling, pressure, size) and the added light allows you to mentally keep track of key location when gaming in the dark (which us gamers tend to do probably far more than is healthy for us). The only disadvantage to a lighted keyboard it is lighted. This means that every little piece of dust or crumb that falls past those keys is going to be lit up if you use the light. For those times you don't want the lights, you can set it to be unlit and it looks like any other non-lit keyboard.
Upgrade path: Logitech G15 (unknown date) Lifespan: About 5 years. Change as needed. Recommendations: |
| Game Controller
(none) |
I think if I were ever to get a controller for PC gaming again I'd likely go with the Logitech ChillStream controller. I don't need the cooling effect myself, I rarely sweat, but Microsoft has been focusing on connectivity between Vista PC players and Xbox 360 players. This Xbox 360 style could come in handy with games that are available both on Windows and the Xbox 360 as they may use the same button setup.
Recommendations: |
Mouse pad:
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Monitor |
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HP L2335
LCD 23" 1920 x 1200 res 16:10 aspect
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The 16:10 aspect LCDs are really great. Games look really good when they use the 1920 x 1200 native resolution (which basically almost all of the new ones do) and still looks very good when they don't use that resolution or happen to be in 4:3 aspect. (I have it set to not stretch images.) This monitor has additional inputs and fun ensues when you hook up the external input to your TV and watch TV in a picture-in-picture box as you do your daily activities. You can also hook up the composite video to a DVD player or console game system. (However, remember that sound may be an issue as most PCs don't have sound inputs.)
Another aspect of LCD tech that makes me very happy is that a circle is a circle and a square is a square no matter where it is on the screen. Standard CRTs suffer from 'geometry issues' where, as you move objects around on the screen, depending on their position relative to the rendering laser they may slightly change shape. This is a non-issue with LCDs as the screen is drawn in a grid and is always exact. The only major disadvantage to the LCD tech is that currently they do not have 'glass screens'. This means that you have to be extremely careful to not get anything on it, point at it with fingers, pens, or other poking devices, squish bugs on it, bump into it, etc. It cannot be cleaned with normal cleaning methods (you have to use a soft cloth and plain water and press pretty carefully, which is best done in vertical and/or horizontal movements or use a special cleaning kit). I think the reason they don't currently have glass covers is that the screen changes color depending on temperature and we don't currently have the technology to place hard glass over the LCD mesh without affecting the temperature. Lifespan: About 4 years. 1680x1050 res, 16:10 aspect, Recommendations: 1920x1200 res, 16:10 aspect, Recommendations: 2560x1600 res, 16:10 aspect, Recommendations: Projections: |
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Operating System |
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Windows
XP 64-bit Pro
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There is often little choice in which operating system you use. While non-Microsoft operating systems will work for many non-gaming applications, they really won't work for gamers.
If you need a new operating system, I recommend going with Vista. If you already have an operating system, you might want to stick with XP unless you have a DirectX10 compatible graphics card and want to play games through DX10. Note that some games perform very well under DirectX10, while others perform very poorly compared to running under DirectX9. Thankfully, these games often provide an option to run without the DirectX10 code if you find you can't get playable framerates. Upgrade path: Vista Home Premium 64-bit w/SP1 OEM (when funds allow) Caution Recommendations: If you would like to see a comparison chart of the different versions and what they include, you can look at one here. I have no clue why they don't just sell the 64-bit version directly. It is really dumb that they don't. Seems like it is reserved for only the more expensive versions. You can order a 64-bit disk online for $10 by visiting a website if you already have the retail 32-bit version. |
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Testing |
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3dMark06 / 3dMark05 / Vantage
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While testing your system is not critical I will always install the most recent versions of Futuremark's 3dMark software to test my system after I've set it up. I also like to run these tests after I've changed a major part, such as when I upgrade my graphics card, or even if I have changed DirectX versions or updated my GPU drivers. It is a great way to see if everything is working and if you go online to compare to other people's scores it is also a great way to see if you seem to be near the range of other systems with your parts and operating system. |
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Cleaning and Protection |
| Digital cleaning:
Your PC constantly builds up little 'bits' of left over information in the system directory, as well as suffers from attack from web pests (adware, spyware, viruses, etc.) In order to keep your system running quickly and smoothly I recommend getting these two programs. I run a Registry sweep about once a month and let Spysweeper run once a week. And to keep things speedy defrag my hard drive once a month as well. Registry Mechanic specializes in finding the 'left over' bits of information that accumulates in your system as time goes on. It is easy to use and fairly cheap should you choose to purchase it. Keeping the system registry clean will help speed up the overall operation of your system. ESET NOD32 Antivirus will find almost all of the known viruses. According to many reviewers it does as good of a job, and sometimes a better job, than Norton. The ESET software also reportedly uses fewer resources and works more invisibly on your system. Webroot Spysweeper will find almost any ad or spyware on your PC and delete it. Adware and Spyware are things that evil companies use to track what you are doing with your PC. Some of these are both illegal and dangerous. These little programs will slowly eat up your system resources as they store and gather more and more data. I highly recommend people protect themselves with Spysweeper. Disk Cleanup is a free thing with Windows. You can find it by going to the start menu, accessories, system tools, then "Disk Cleanup". You don't need to do this one very often, but your system does store temporary files that you don't need after a while and this will clean those up. I'd say try and do this maybe every 4 to 6 months. In some version of Windows the Disk Defrag can be found in the same area as the Disk Cleanup tool. In others it will be in your control panel under Performance and Maintenance. The hard drive works like a book, and when data is in the proper order it will run quickly. If, however, the 'pages' get all jumbled up looking things up will take a lot longer and performance will be affected. I recommend running a disk defrag once a month or every other month. Physical cleaning: You can get cans of "compressed air" in many different forms. These are typically sold at computer stores, but you can also sometimes find them at other stores, such as gaming stores like GameStop or EB Games. The most common is the "Dust-off" brand. You can often find these sold singly or in 3 packs. Often a 3 pack is the best deal for the money. I recommend opening up your system and blowing the parts off to get all the dust out once every 6 months, although once every 4 months is probably ideal. Also, you have to be very careful when cleaning an LCD monitor, and the best way to do this is probably by using special cleaning wipes. Occasionally you can find a cleaning kit with both, such as this pack sold at Best Buy. |
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Power
APC |
Your system is always at risk of damage from any kind of anomaly on the power line. As such I always recommend people protect their system with a good surge protector or universal power supply (also known as a battery backup). Don't go cheap with these. A good surge protector will stabilize the flow of electricity as well as decrease 'line noise' and help stabilize any over or under current situations. Also, many of them will cut power once power is lost, preventing your system from flickering on and off during a situation when power becomes unstable.
A good surge protector will probably run you between $25-35 and is a very worthwhile investment for any system. Uninteruptable Power Supplies (UPS) tend to be a lot more expensive and range in price from about $75 to $750. Here is the tricky part - you want a battery backup that will be able to cover your current power needs. This is something you don't have to consider if you are using a simple surge protector. I would say that you probably want to target one which has a "VA rating" equal to, or higher than, your power supply rating. The average gamer doesn't need a battery backup, however, if you would like an extra few minutes to shut the system down after you loose power you may want to consider one. I'd say you probably only want to consider one if you work with media, such as video or audio editing. An gamer doesn't need to spend the money on a UPS. Recommendations: |